October in Santa Teresa Gallura - Canoe excursion to the mouth of the Liscia

On the Canadian canoe [1], the silhouette of the god Kokopelli plays the flute and dances with a hunched back. The bow cuts through the water without hurting it, driven by rare, light and silent paddles. It's all a caress. The breeze caresses the branches of the willows, the leaves of the alders caress the surface of the water, those of the tamarisks caress your face as you go along the shore. A peninsula of cattails and feathered reeds closes your perspective; you go around it and - surprise! - you touch an archipelago of water lilies that hatch in the first sight of sun. Suddenly an alarmed chirping; raise your head: it is the river nightingale that signals your unusual presence to the other animals ... And here they are, the other animals: right in the middle of the river, in the distance, some big beasts with a tawny mantle ... Deer? Bison?! No. Despite Kokopelli's dance, we are not in a Navaho reserve: we are in Sardinia, precisely in Gallura, between Santa Teresa Gallura and Palau, and those are common limousine breed cows. They drink, refresh themselves, nibble some alder tops and look at you with their placid eyes, to tell the truth with little curiosity. They are expected on the shore by the calves born a few days ago …

This is the beauty of an excursion to a Mediterranean river like Liscia [2]: walk along a waterway, a treasure trove of biodiversity enclosed by two shores of varied and luxuriant vegetation that give you the illusion of exploring a wild territory, were it not for the gashes that they open from time to time on the pastures, for a stazzo house on the hill, a pillar with a winch, a dry boat in the reeds, two fishermen in a bend that remind you that you are still one step away from the "civilized world".

After passing the pool of red cows, the river widens into a glittering square, surrounded by reeds like palaces, flown over by a male marsh harrier. On the horizon the blue mountains of Corsica. The October air is cool, but the sun warms you up and convinces you to get rid of your anorak [3]. The guide suggests aiming your binoculars and camera at a dead branch sticking out of the water. In fact it has a nice shape, it looks like a postmodern statue… Uh ?! The branch takes flight! It was a female cormorant with a nuptial livery. You do not have time to accompany its flight with your eyes and attention is drawn to the strange silhouette of a gray heron. You stifle an exclamation so as not to disturb the inhabitants of the river too much [4], which you discover curve after curve: buzzards, white herons, cattle egrets, egrets, a water turtle, the gallery nests of bee-eaters, the verses of the shy water rail, the diving of grebes , the golden reflections of a carp and finally the wonder concentrated in a flutter of wings on the water: the turquoise and orange bolt of a kingfisher.

The brackish air, the increasingly blue water and the flickering of a mullet warn you that the mouth is near. The river fragments into a labyrinth of islets formed by apparently impenetrable reeds. Luckily you are in good hands: the guide [5] knows all the meanders of the river, the shoals and the obstacles, but above all he teaches to appreciate and respect this ecosystem as rich as it is fragile. The mouth is still closed from the beach. The sand warms the feet. The marine panorama is superb: the promontories of Isola dei Gabbiani and Culuccia, the island of Spargi, the Strait of Bonifacio, the islands and mountains of Corsica… Yet you only dedicate a minute to them. You can't help but turn towards the river that brought you here, giving you this unforgettable experience, its hidden beauty, its wealth, its peace.

MORE INFORMATION

[1] The Canadian canoe, the kayak, the dinghy, the stand up paddle (SUP), a small boat (rowing or with a small electric motor) are all suitable water vehicles for practicing sustainable hiking in wetlands. But it is your behavior above all that makes the difference. First of all, it is preferable to rely on qualified guides who know the area well and guarantee more safety for the environment and for yourself. In any case, it is important to inform yourself well and ask for advice from guides, associations and info points on how to use the areas, also because they can reveal unexpected opportunities such as bird-watching, yoga in the water, meditation and more!

[2] Gallura has many small streams, but only four can be considered real rivers, with running water even in summer. Two form the natural boundaries of the region: to the west the Coghinas, which flows between Valledoria and Castelsardo; to the east the Posada, which in the final stretch flows under the medieval fortress of the homonymous town. The two rivers of the internal Gallura are the Padrongianus (or Padrogiano), which flows south of Olbia, and Liscia. All these create interesting and often little known coastal wetlands, of great naturalistic and landscape interest. Lu Riu di lʼÍscia was born on Mount Limbara, at 1362 meters above sea level, the highest point in Gallura, and flows northwards, crossing the whole region and changing its name several times. In the dry season, the mouth is closed by sand dunes and this means that the terminal section is devoid of currents, forming a kind of long and narrow lake, ideal for a meditative paddling.

[3] The appropriate clothing for a river excursion depends on the season and the time of day. However, the ideal is to dress in layers. For example, in the mid-season, a breathable t-shirt, a thermal jacket, a sweatshirt, a windbreaker and warm shoes. In summer you can stay lighter, even in sandals and shorts, but beware of the wind and humidity of sunrise and sunset! For safety, it is best to always wear a life jacket, tie your glasses, camera and binoculars behind your neck, do not carry any valuables or clothing, and store keys, wallets and phones in a pouch or waterproof backpack.

[4] Water, as we know, is life. The wetlands of coastal Sardinia are incredible reserves of biodiversity and the mouth of the Liscia river is no exception. Birds stand out more than other animals (in addition to those listed in the post, you can meet dozens and dozens of other more or less rare species). But there is also a large presence of strange fish, reptiles, amphibians, insects and mammals. The flora of the Mediterranean rivers is to be discovered, in its variety of species, endemisms, inflorescences, associations, shapes and perfumes. Furthermore, the holistic observation of the landscape is always interesting, characterized by past and recent human footprints (sometimes in symbiosis, sometimes threatening).

[5] We had this beautiful experience in a half day of autumn with Lorenzo Rivella, nature photographer and president of the amateur sports association Gli Amici di Peppe (from the name of a heron elected as the "guardian angel" of the river). If you want to do your part in protecting the heritage of the places you visit, get informed and always contact guides and associations that have a truly ethical and sustainable approach to the natural, social and cultural environment of the area ... and beware of greenwashing!