September in Arzachena - The Vermentino harvest

There are many access routes to Gallura: it can be reached by air, landing at the Costa Smeralda airport; by land, between the fields of Valledoria, in the middle of the woods of Bortigiadas, up the pass of Monte Limbara or through the tunnels of San Teodoro; by sea, from the Gulf of Olbia or through the Strait of Bonifacio. And there are also those who access it by the way of the senses, sipping a glass of sparkling Vermentino di Gallura. That's it. More and more people around the world discover the name of this unique and surprising territory [1] from the labels of its most prestigious wines.

If you too are one of these sensory travelers, how about going up the path that leads from the chalice to the source of taste? Along the roads of the region, you will encounter many vineyards, including large ones, managed by young and innovative farms [2]. To take part in the Vermentino harvest you can try to contact one of the approximately fifty wineries in the area, from the most famous and structured to the smallest but no less interesting ones.

We tried this experience with the very young Pastores winery, owned by Pino Nolis and Daniela Mela, located in the Municipality of Arzachena, along the road to Palau, in the place called Tíana [3]. The small winery is located right inside a narrow and long vineyard bordered upstream by the Orientale Sarda state road and downstream of the narrow-gauge regional railway that connected Tempio with Palau and which is now traveled seasonally by the tourist Trenino Verde. The lower part of the Pastores vineyard is dedicated to Cannonau grapes, while the luxuriant Vermentino vines occupy the upper part.

From up here, the first light of the morning gives us a sublime view of the Gallura countryside: on the horizon the mountains of Limbara and Luogosanto, forests of oaks, herds and flocks grazing, interspersed with vineyards and characteristic granite crests and domes, such as that of the Monte Tiana, so close to us that under the top we can see the megalithic boulders of the fortified hill from the Nuragic era. But it is the intense green of the vines that definitely catches the eye. You feel like diving into it ... And so we do! The owners, workers and volunteer helpers greet us cheerfully and arm us with shears and boxes [4].

There are those who are already at work and in the meantime chat with the neighbors to spin. We join in the work and dialogue. With one hand we untie the first bunch from the shoots and leaves and with the other we cut it on the peduncle; we put the grapes in the baskets and continue from plant to plant, until the end of the row. A song is heard coming from who knows where, in the sea of ​​green vine leaves. Boys and girls joke on a small cart pulled by a tractor. It is the joy of the harvest done as it once was, a community work where the joy of being together in the countryside cancels the effort and predisposes to meeting and sharing stories and impressions. While we take a break to nibble some juicy berries and stretch our hands and back, we hear them calling us for lunch, a necessary and very welcome refill, before the final operations of the afternoon: the destemming and pressing of the grapes inside the large tubs, in the which also this year will be repeated the millennial alchemy of winemaking [5].

MORE INFORMATION

[1] Gallura. An ancient name. So ancient that linguists struggle to find its origin and meaning. It is the name of the northeastern region of Sardinia, for sixty years the most sought-after destination for those looking for dream beaches, an emerald sea, picturesque landscapes and nightlife. But Gallura is above all a vast agro-pastoral territory, rich in excellent and peculiar productions in the Sardinian landscape, such as cow's cheese called buttòni di càsgiu, beef raised in a semi-wild state, myrtle liqueur, ricotta-based desserts called casgiatini, bitter honey, fresh tricu còssu pasta such as li cjusòni and li pulilgiòni, the single dish called suppa cuata or "Gallura soup" and more.

[2] Until a few decades ago the vineyards were many but small in size, mostly reserved for family consumption or for conferment at the historic social cellars of Tempio and Monti. Since 1996, with the obtaining of the Controlled and Guaranteed Designation of Origin (the only one in Sardinia), Vermentino di Gallura has broken away from the generic (but still excellent) Vermentino di Sardegna DOC, becoming the flagship of the Gallura wine sector. The exclusive production area is that of the municipalities of the historic region of Gallura and three municipalities of Montacuto: Berchidda, Oschiri and Monti. The vast Municipality of Arzachena hosts many small and large vineyards and boasts established wineries such as Capichera and Surrau, but also many small emerging realities.

[3] Pastores is a family-run farm based in Luogosanto, proudly based on the production of traditional pecorino cheeses, meats and cured meats. For some years it has begun to diversify and enrich its basket of products with cow meats and cheeses, and cannonau and vermentino wines. At the winery premises, right in the heart of the vineyard, it is also possible to taste and buy the company's products and stay in comfortable rooms overlooking the vineyard and the surrounding countryside.

[4] To harvest comfortably and with little risk, we recommend that you dress lightly but with long trousers, comfortable countryside or hiking shoes, and perhaps a wide-brimmed hat to protect yourself from the sun. The dangers are mainly constituted by cutting tools such as shears, which must be handled with caution, but also by possible insect bites from bees, wasps and spiders that nest in the clusters, and finally by containers for harvesting the grapes, which is always better not to load too much, to avoid excessive effort.

[5] Vermentino di Gallura is vinified "in white", ie without maceration of the marcs, which are extracted from the must immediately or after a few hours. Particular attention is paid to hygiene and the preservation of the aromas and perfumes for which it is so much appreciated. The bouquet is elegant, slightly aromatic and floral. When tasted young it has a beautiful straw color with greenish reflections. On the palate the Vermentino reveals its good structure and its alcohol content (generally around 13-14% vol.). It is soft and mineral and if vinified alone it leaves a final note of bitter almond. To taste it in the best way, it is good to accompany it with dishes based on fish or shellfish, from appetizers to main courses, but there are also those who appreciate it with white meats, especially if grilled.